Khoon Hooi taps into the art of surrealism for his Fall 2022 main collection

SITI NURFATIHAH PIRDAUS
SITI NURFATIHAH PIRDAUS
03 Aug 2022 01:32pm

Fashion labels are galloping forward with their extravagant ideas for the fall collection, including Malaysia’s very own Khoon Hooi. The renowned designer introduced his fall collection, tapping into the art of surrealism - a 20th-century cultural movement that portrays the subconscious mind without forgoing therational vision of life.

At the core of the unique concept lies the artistic flair from the Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte as the main inspiration for the collection.

“From Black Magic (1945) and Empire of Light (1950) to Golconda (1953) and The Son of Man (1964), Magritte’s thought-provoking paintings influenced the collection within elements of surprise, pushing the boundaries of the brand’s effortless wearability,” wrote Khoon Hooi in a press statement.

One of the key takeaways from this collection is the heart-shaped silhouettes as the cherry on top of their dresses and tops, with some transforming into puffy shoulders when arms are apart.

Fit-and-flare styles are an overkill feature for other parts of the collection, as corset tops that tighten the bodice further emphasise the body proportions.

The illusion of distortion is also enhanced with asymmetric hemlines and cascading ruffles.

As the brand would say, bizarre is beautiful and the shapes of the season are experimental and imaginative. The collection celebrates designs that re-envision the natural body.

They also brings their fabrication and embellishment to another level while maintaining their identity as seen from their signature - taffeta, brocade, satin and velvet laid the foundation of the collection, accented with an array of embellishment from crystals and beading to pearls and chains.

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Another focal point will be the juxtaposition as they made use of fabric mixing as well as colours, and not to forget the eye, as a reference to Magritte’s ‘The False Mirror’ oil painting, which are delicately positioned at the collars, bodices and skirts of the collection.

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And because life gets boring when you see the same designs for fall collections, there is no need for you to worry about this since the collection illustrates elements that they have never featured in their previous collections - colourful striped brocade that exudes a sense of whimsy; the strictly black-and-white looks that ooze sophistication like no other; and an alluring gown crafted from delicate French lace.

So what are the standout pieces from the collection?

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The first on the list as the stage-stealing item that you just can't look away from is the Rosamonde - a poker card-inspired gown accented with cascading ruffles that endwith a drop hem, Madelca - an understated black-and-white number with a big bow that envelopes the bodice, Quinn - striking midi dress featuring a charming heart-shaped bodice with the brand's signature pencil skirt, peppered with crystal beading as well as Tatjana - the ultimate sequined party dress framed by dramatic, puffy sleeves.

The collection is available at APW Bangsar, selected multi-brand boutiques and department stores worldwide and on https://khoonhooi.com/collections.

The eponymous brand, established in 1999 by Malaysian designer Lee Khoon Hooi, masterfully combines handmade design with high-end craftsmanship.

Each piece, which is made of luxurious materials and features a strong play on silhouettes, patterns, and colours, is known for its meticulous embroidery techniques.

Since 2010, the company has participated in the trade shows at Paris Fashion Week, and international superstars like Katy Perry, Zooey Deschanel, Karen Pittman, Leslie Grossman, Mandy Moore, and Kim Joor Young have all sported his creations.