KUALA LUMPUR - Being a food that pleases the palate across all ethnicities, nasi lemak is widely regarded as Malaysia’s national dish - a culinary representation of the nation's unity, diversity and cultural harmony.
Known for its fragrant coconut milk-infused rice, nasi lemak is a go-to favourite food, typically served with sambal, crispy fried anchovies, toasted peanuts, boiled eggs, and fresh cucumber slices.
This dish, enjoyed by Malaysians of all backgrounds, has transformed from being a staple at breakfast tables and street stalls to a much-sought-after food in upscale restaurants across the country.
With variations, including adding fried chicken, beef rendang, and squid sambal, nasi lemak has become a versatile dish catering to diverse tastes.
From its humble beginnings of it being sold in small packets by Malay hawkers, it has become a roaring business for Chinese and Indian entrepreneurs and even foreigners, some of whom have become immensely popular thanks to social media.
Nasi lemak - a money earner for all races
Among them is Sangheeta Manimalar, 35, who operates a stall in Seri Kembangan in Selangor and has become an Internet viral sensation after news of her sumptuous nasi lemak spread online.
The nasi lemak vendor says that her business, which has been operating for 13 years, attracts customers of all ages and ethnic backgrounds and from places near and far.
"Last month, there were 13 customers who came from Perlis to buy nasi lemak, and just yesterday, an ustaz (religious teacher) from Kelantan came to Seri Kembangan specifically to buy my nasi lemak,” she told Bernama.
This writer observed that several Chinese families have been coming to buy nasi lemak from Sangheeta, also known as ‘Akka Nasi Lemak’ on the social media platform TikTok, from morning until noon. Some even arrive in their pyjamas, as if it were part of their daily routine to buy 'Akka' nasi lemak in the morning.
A regular customer, Vincent Sinnappan, 46, said he has been a loyal customer for the past seven years.
"Before she (Sangeetha) went viral, I was already buying her nasi lemak. And what I like about her nasi lemak is the sambal and chicken rendang,” he added.
The idea to start selling nasi lemak emerged spontaneously when she craved it while pregnant with her second child at the age of 23. Operating the business with her mother, Suriakala Utras, 52, and her brother, Yugenthiran Manimalar, 37, they started from a roadside stall. Her business has now expanded to a small food court stall in Seri Kembangan and a second branch located in Jalan Kuchai Lama in Kuala Lumpur.
When asked about essential condiments, Sangheeta emphasised that peanuts, anchovies, and boiled eggs are crucial for completing the flavour of nasi lemak. She started the business with two types of sambal -spicy and non-spicy - with its signature dishes including fried chicken, ‘ayam masak merah’, chicken rendang, and its famous chicken curry.
"We also sell prawn sambal, quail eggs, anchovies with ‘petai’, clam sambal, and various types of pastries such as idli, vadai, curry puffs, and appam,” she said.
Starting with a daily profit of RM15 to RM20, her current daily profit ranges between about RM400 and RM900 now.
Popular among foreign workers
Another vendor, Pauziah Mat, 71, a vendor and founder of Ziemel Corner nasi lemak, believes that the national dish has a unique taste loved not only by Malaysians but also by people from other countries as well and has grown popular among foreign workers here.
Pauziah, who has been running her nasi lemak business for nearly 25 years, remarks that her customers range in age, background, race, and interest, demonstrating how much Malaysians from all backgrounds value nasi lemak. She said that certain customers love their nasi lemak with extra anchovies, while others prefer it with more sambal, among other choices.
Pauziah, who operates the business with her husband, Mohd Kamil Abdul Ghani, 64, said they began with just a few add-ons, including fried chicken, fried eggs, squid sambal, and beef rendang, which have always been part of their tradition. They have now widened their menu to include additional choices, such as several types of rendang, paru (beef lungs), sambal kerang (cockles), squid, chilli-fried potatoes, fried eggs, etc.
As someone who loves, makes, and sells nasi lemak, Pauziah believes that the unique taste comes from the sambal.
In an interview with Bernama, she said that analysing consumer input helps her uncover flaws that must be rectified while preserving the dish's distinct flavour.
"People say that if we know the feedback from customers, we will understand where our shortcomings are. That’s what we want to maintain. The uniqueness of the taste should not be altered, and we must ensure that our measurements are always accurate,” said Pauziah.
Charm of nasi lemak
Lee Jaslyn, 24 said the charm of nasi lemak lies in its foundational ingredients, especially the rice itself, paired with peanuts, egg, and anchovies. She believes that these components are essential for a truly satisfying nasi lemak experience.
Lee, who buys her favourite RM5 squid or fried chicken nasi lemak at least twice a week, said nasi lemak is a local food and a typical Malaysian breakfast selection, recognised and celebrated across the country.
"Malays often enjoy it with fried chicken or rendang, while Chinese versions might include other meat delicacies. Indians might serve it with hot spicy curries or fried fish. It brings everyone together," she said.
Nasi lemak connoisseur Puspavathy Selvarajah, a 54-year-old nurse from Klang, believes that a good nasi lemak should include peanuts, anchovies, cucumbers, and eggs - ingredients that she considers essential for a well-rounded dish.
Puspavathy said nasi lemak is a powerful symbol of Malaysian culture and identity, and she also underscores how nasi lemak serves as a unifying food across Malaysia’s diverse ethnic groups.
"Everyone loves nasi lemak, regardless of age. It is a balanced meal with carbohydrates, protein, and vegetables (cucumber). Whether savoured for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, nasi lemak brings people together, offering a taste of Malaysia’s rich cultural heritage,” she noted.
Selling nasi lemak a boon for micro-entrepreneurs
Given its widespread availability, nasi lemak is more than Malaysia’s beloved national dish and breakfast staple. It represents a thriving micro-economy providing much-needed income for thousands of hawkers and micro-entrepreneurs, which at the same unites communities across the country.
From the fragrant rice cooked in coconut milk to the spicy sambal and crispy anchovies, topped with cucumber and boiled egg, nasi lemak brings together various agricultural and food industries, creating a unique economic web or ecosystem that supports livelihoods and cultural identity.
Bank Muamalat Malaysia Bhd chief economist Dr Mohd Afzanizam Abdul Rashid describes nasi lemak as having wide-ranging economic spinoffs. Each component of nasi lemak, from the banana leaves to the sambal, plays a significant role in linking various sectors of the economy.
"The ingredients for nasi lemak cut across various products and services. It touches several agrifood sectors, such as rice, vegetables, fisheries, poultry, palm oil and fruits. Some of these ingredients have a lower self-sufficiency ratio (SSR), such as rice, which has an SSR hovering around 70 per cent,” he said.
This means there is a dependency on imports to meet local demand for rice, including for nasi lemak vendors.
Afzanizam noted that successful sellers often have to strategically choose the location of their stalls and leverage social media platforms to attract customers, proving that digital literacy is now as essential as traditional cooking skills. "Some may venture into frozen nasi lemak, which can be sold to various outlets. It may look simple, but it can be a source of fortune if the sellers of nasi lemak can do it right,” he added.
Nasi lemak unites Malaysians
Meanwhile, Universiti Sains Islam Malaysia (USIM) economist associate professor Dr Nuradli Ridzwan Shah Mohd Dali concurred that the iconic dish transcends ethnic boundaries. Nuradli said the affordability of nasi lemak has long made it a staple food for many Malaysians.
"Historically priced at as low as RM1, the cost has increased, with basic servings now averaging around RM5. However, premium versions, especially those offered at hotels or fine dining establishments, can reach up to RM20. This price variation reflects the diverse dining experiences associated with the dish, ranging from street-side stalls to high-end venues,” he said.
He noted that the diverse pricing of nasi lemak highlights its economic impact and market segmentation, with vendors offering lower priced options catering to the daily needs of individuals seeking quick and affordable meals, often resulting in high volume sales.
Conversely, higher priced nasi lemak offered in upscale environments aims to provide a unique dining experience, justifying its premium cost through superior ambience and service.
"Nasi lemak is not just about the food, it’s about the experience. While some consumers look for an affordable quick meal, others are willing to pay more for a refined dining experience. This segmentation is crucial for vendors to understand and adapt to,” he advised.
He reckons that the increase in the price of nasi lemak at certain establishments reflects a broader trend where food is paired with a specific lifestyle or experience.
"For example, restaurants and high-end hotels offer nasi lemak as part of a curated dining experience, which includes an upscale setting and exceptional service. This strategy caters to consumers who prioritise experience and environment over mere costs,” he added.
He stressed that understanding the Business Model Canvas (BMC) is essential for vendors navigating these market segments. The BMC includes components such as the unique selling proposition, market segmentation, and customer channels, all of which must be interconnected for a successful business model.
Nuradli said nasi lemak sellers must recognise their unique selling proposition and target market, and that understanding their business model and market dynamics is crucial for sustainability. - BERNAMA