The Fall/Winter 2024 collection presented by Berlin-based fashion label GmbH at the finale of the Men’s Paris Fashion Week stretched beyond a display of fashion artistry when its designers Serhat Işık and Benjamin Huseby used the platform to call for a ceasefire, amidst the ongoing genocide by Israel in Gaza.
With all eyes set on the runway, both Işık and Huseby drew focus on the pressing need for a ceasefire as Gaza suffers more than 100 days of massive destruction, ongoing shelling and killing of civilians by Israel.
The duo opened the show by delivering an impactful speech and recounted their immigrant and religious backgrounds.
"As fashion designers we are normally left to express our thoughts through clothing and leave the rest to the imagination. But we live in dangerous times, where the precision of words is needed.
"We have called for a ceasefire, a release of all hostages, a free Palestine and an end to the occupation. All demands we think should be uncontroversial,” they said.
The designers then concluded with a lengthy quote from a 2002 speech by an Indian author named Arundhati Roy that intertwined with the theme of their collection called "Untitled Nations”.
"Nationalism of one kind or another was the cause of most of the genocide of the 20th century,” said the duo, quoting Arundhati.
It was reported that Huseby broke down while reading the last sentence and several guests were also seen silently wiping away tears.
With fashion increasingly becoming a vehicle for social and political expression, their actions received praise by social media users.
However, the remarkable bias in Western media coverage of the genocide is evident and continues to spark criticism online.
Supermodel Bella Hadid’s elder sister Alana Hadid commented on a post by @diet_prada of GmbH’s call for peace, giving them the thumbs up, but also criticised Western media outlet WWD (Women’s Wear Daily) for removing the designers from their page due to pressure.
"An end to genocide is NOT CONTROVERSIAL!,” wrote Hadid who goes by @lanzybear on Instagram.
Award-winning journalist Ahmad Eldin also had something similar to say.
"Fashion has never made more sense or been sexier.. thanks for speaking truth to power @gmbh_official and yes SHAME on @wwd for thinking demanding an end to occupation and genocide is controversial. It’s not. What’s controversial is supporting the dehumanising rogue and racist state acting with impunity!,” wrote Eldin on Instagram.
While it’s presumed that Hadid was speaking about WWD removing GmbH’s post off their Instagram feed, checks by Sinar Daily discovered that the media outlet still has the story of GmbH published on their site.
Following the speech, models began to strut the runway with garments that display symbols of solidarity.
Some highlights from the collection include strong-shouldered coats, oversized tees and hoodies with subdued, cracked version of the United Nations logo.
With each look carefully curated, one can tell that the elements and details all display different meanings. For example, a model carried a clutch bag with handles that resembled swords, while another donned a jacket with pockets that looked strikingly similar to a bomber vest.
"The core of this collection is really in the title, this kind of play on the United Nations.
"For us, it’s a strong statement against nationalism, which I think is really the issue and what we fear the most,” they said.